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Jacob & Co. Watches

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The History of Jacob & Co.

Founded in 1986 by New York Diamond District jeweler Jacob Arabo, Jacob & Co is one of watchmaking's boldest and most theatrical names. From the galaxy spinning Astronomia to the roaring Bugatti engine automatons, its grand complications pair genuine, patented Swiss engineering with pure spectacle, backed by world class gem setting. It is horology unafraid to astonish.

What surprises a lot of people is that underneath all the spectacle of these Jacob & Co watches sits genuine, serious watchmaking. The complications in the best Jacob & Co watches are real, patented, and enormously difficult to produce, developed with some of the finest movement makers in Switzerland. These are Jacob & Co watches that manage to be both a jaw dropping piece of theater and a legitimate feat of engineering at the same time. It is not for everyone, and that is rather the point. Let us walk you through the remarkable story behind Jacob & Co watches, and how a young immigrant jeweler from the New York Diamond District built one of the most recognizable and daring names in all of watchmaking.

The Story of Jacob Arabo

From Tashkent to New York

Every Jacob & Co watch traces back to one remarkable man, Jacob Arabo. Born Yakov Arabov in Tashkent, in what was then the Soviet Union, he immigrated to the United States as a teenager with his family, who arrived with little more than they could carry. It is a genuine American dream story. Fascinated by watches from the age of thirteen, when his father gave him a world time watch, and drawn to the tiny gears and mechanisms, the young Arabo took a jewelry design course and began working in New York City's famous Diamond District.

In 1986, at just twenty one years old, Arabo founded the company behind Jacob & Co watches and began designing jewelry under the name Jacob & Co. Success did not come overnight. It took years of tenacity before his bold, original designs found their audience, but when they did, they did so spectacularly. His pieces were unlike anything else on the market, and they caught the eye of a rising generation of New York hip hop artists in the 1990s who wanted jewelry as ambitious as they were. The foundation for every Jacob & Co watch to come was laid in those years on 47th Street.

Jacob the Jeweler

The nickname that changed everything for the future maker of Jacob & Co watches came from the late Notorious B.I.G., who dubbed Arabo "Jacob the Jeweler" and introduced him to his circle of entertainers. That single moniker turned Arabo into a cultural phenomenon. He became the jeweler to a generation of stars, and he was one of the first to create large diamond pieces for men, helping define an entire aesthetic that is now completely mainstream. His name was woven into the lyrics of countless songs by the biggest artists of the era, cementing his place in popular culture long before he ever made a serious watch.

This cultural cachet matters, because it is a genuine and inseparable part of the Jacob & Co watches story. The brand's client list over the years reads like a who's who of entertainment and sport, from music legends to Hollywood stars to championship athletes. That celebrity association is not something Jacob & Co watches hide from, it is woven into its identity. When you wear a Jacob & Co watch, you are wearing a piece of that flamboyant, unapologetic, self made cultural history, and for many collectors that connection is a big part of the appeal.

From Jewelry to Haute Horlogerie

Watches, and the Jacob & Co watches to come, were always in the back of Arabo's mind, and once his jewelry business was thriving, he turned to them in earnest. The first of the Jacob & Co watches, the Five Time Zone, arrived in 2002. It was a colorful, quartz powered travel watch that displayed the time in five cities at once, with interchangeable bezels and straps, and it became an instant hit with the international jet set. A photograph of supermodel Naomi Campbell wearing one on the cover of Vogue put Jacob & Co watches firmly on the map, and versions of the Five Time Zone remain in the catalog to this day.

But Arabo wanted more than a successful fashion watch. He wanted to make serious high watchmaking, the kind of thing the Swiss establishment considered the pinnacle of the craft. When he first approached Swiss suppliers with his ambitions, he was given the cold shoulder. Rather than give up, he pushed forward, and in 2007 he founded Jacob & Co. SA, based in Geneva, and released his first true Swiss made high complication. That watch signaled that Jacob & Co watches were about to become something the industry had never quite seen before.

The Quenttin

That first serious timepiece among the Jacob & Co watches was the Quenttin, and it announced Arabo's ambitions in dramatic fashion. It was the first of the Jacob & Co watches to feature a vertical tourbillon, mounted on its side, powered by an array of seven mainspring barrels that gave it a staggering thirty one day power reserve, the longest in the world at the time. This was not a jewelry watch with a pretty dial. It was a genuine engineering statement, a declaration that this New York jeweler intended to compete at the highest level of Swiss watchmaking on his own wildly original terms.

The Quenttin set the template for every Jacob & Co watch that followed. Take a serious, difficult complication, then present it in a way no traditional watchmaker would ever dare, with exposed architecture, unusual case shapes, and a theatrical sense of display. It was the moment Jacob & Co watches stopped being an offshoot of a jewelry brand and became a high horology house in their own right, one with a voice unlike anyone else in the business.

The Astronomia

If there is one creation that defines Jacob & Co watches, it is the Astronomia. Unveiled in 2014, the Astronomia is quite simply one of the most astonishing and animated timepieces ever made, and it remains the beating heart of the brand's identity. The founder himself called it revolutionary and his most important watch, and it is hard to argue. Nothing had ever looked quite like it, and even now, years later, seeing one in motion for the first time tends to leave people genuinely speechless.

The Astronomia takes the traditional flat tourbillon and does something no one had done before. It stands the whole movement upright and sets it spinning. Beneath a tall dome of sapphire crystal, a central structure carries four arms that rotate around a central axis, completing a full revolution in about twenty minutes. On one arm sits a hand painted globe representing the Earth. On another spins an exclusive 288 facet, one carat diamond cut specially for the brand, representing the Moon. A third arm carries a multi axis gravitational tourbillon, and a fourth carries the time display, cleverly geared so it always stays upright and readable as the whole assembly turns. It is a galaxy on your wrist, and it is unforgettable.

A Family of the Impossible

A Universe of Variations

The Astronomia was never a single watch but the start of an entire universe of variations, and the brand has produced a remarkable number of them. Among these Jacob & Co watches there are versions with celestial panoramas, sidereal displays, and zodiac signs. There are dials set with precious stones, hand carved dragons and other sculptures, and open worked movements of dazzling complexity. Some spin faster, some add further complications, and each one pushes the theatrical spectacle a little further. Across the range of Jacob & Co watches, the Astronomia family is where the brand's imagination runs most gloriously wild.

What is worth understanding is that these Jacob & Co watches are not tricks. Beneath the showmanship, an Astronomia is one of the most genuinely difficult Jacob & Co watches to build, with a multi axis tourbillon and a differential gear system that would challenge any high horology house. The genius of Jacob & Co watches is the way they marry that real mechanical substance to pure, unabashed spectacle. Most brands do one or the other. This one insists on both at once, and the Astronomia is the ultimate proof of it.

The Bugatti Partnership

Among the most celebrated Jacob & Co watches of recent years are those born from the brand's partnership with Bugatti, the legendary French maker of multi million dollar hypercars. It is a perfect pairing of two names obsessed with pushing engineering to ludicrous extremes, and the results are some of the most jaw dropping watches the brand has ever made. The first, the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon, launched in 2020 and set a new standard for what a car inspired watch could be.

The centerpiece of the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon is astonishing. For the first time in watchmaking history, the movement contains a fully functional miniature replica of Bugatti's famous sixteen cylinder engine, carved in part from sapphire crystal. Press a button and the tiny engine block springs to life, its sixteen pistons pumping up and down exactly as they would in the real car. The movement is even suspended in the case on four tiny shock absorbers, echoing the car's suspension, and the power reserve indicator is shaped like a fuel gauge. A one minute flying tourbillon, tilted at a dramatic angle, keeps time beneath it all. It is completely over the top, and completely wonderful.

Engineering as Theater

The Bugatti Tourbillon

The Bugatti collaboration has continued to evolve, and a newer Bugatti Tourbillon watch followed the launch of Bugatti's latest hypercar, with an even more advanced engine automaton. These pieces perfectly capture what makes Jacob & Co watches special. The little engine serves no timekeeping purpose whatsoever. It is pure spectacle, an automaton in the grand old tradition of watchmaking, updated for the age of the hypercar. But building it required genuinely serious engineering, including patented solutions to keep the delicate movement safe as it moves within the case.

This is the essence of the philosophy behind Jacob & Co watches, taking real, difficult watchmaking and using it in service of pure wonder and delight. A Bugatti themed Jacob & Co watch is the kind of thing that stops conversation at a dinner table and holds a crowd. These Jacob & Co watches are horology as entertainment, as sculpture, as a rolling piece of automotive art for the wrist, and there is genuinely nothing else quite like it anywhere in the watch world.

The Mystery Tourbillon and Casino

The appetite of Jacob & Co watches for the spectacular runs deeper still. The Mystery Tourbillon was the first watch to place two linked triple axis tourbillons back to back in the center of a gem set dial, seeming to float with no visible support. The Astronomia Casino goes even further into pure playfulness, incorporating a fully working miniature roulette wheel you can spin, alongside a tiny craps table and other casino details. These are the kind of impossible, joyful ideas that no traditional watchmaker would ever attempt, and they are exactly what makes the world of Jacob & Co watches so endlessly entertaining to explore.

Twin Turbo, Opera, and Beyond

The range of grand complication Jacob & Co watches extends well beyond the Astronomia and Bugatti lines. The Twin Turbo is the motorsport inspired masterpiece among Jacob & Co watches, a watch that combines not one but two multi axis tourbillons with a minute repeater and, in its most extreme Twin Turbo Furious form, a chronograph and a mechanical reference indicator as well. The Twin Turbo is described, fairly, as a supercar for the wrist, an intense concentration of the most difficult complications in watchmaking packed into one aggressively styled case.

Then there is the Opera collection, perhaps the most charming idea in the whole catalog. These are musical watches built around a genuine mechanical music box movement, and they play an iconic film theme on demand. The Opera Godfather plays the theme from The Godfather, complete with a rotating cylinder you can watch working, while the Scarface edition honors that film. Combining a music box with a tourbillon in one of its watches is fiendishly difficult for the brand, and it is exactly the sort of impossible sounding project the brand loves. These are among the most theatrical and delightful Jacob & Co watches of all.

The Epic and Split-Flap Watches

Not every Jacob & Co watch costs as much as a house. The Epic SF24 is a wonderful example of the cleverness of Jacob & Co watches at a more accessible level, a travel watch with a fully mechanical split flap display, inspired by the old departure boards at airports and train stations, that physically flips through the names of 24 world cities. It was the first time such a system had been built into a mechanical watch, and it is both genuinely useful and enormous fun to operate. The Epic X, meanwhile, is the brand's skeletonized sports watch, a bolder and more wearable everyday piece that brings the Jacob & Co attitude to a more approachable format.

The Jewelry Heritage

It is impossible to understand Jacob & Co watches without remembering that this is, at its heart, a jewelry house first. Arabo made his name and fortune setting extraordinary stones, and that expertise runs through everything the brand does. Nowhere is this clearer than in the gem set Jacob & Co watches that carry names like Billionaire, Millionaire, and Caviar. These are Jacob & Co watches conceived first and foremost as jewelry, with cases and bracelets so thoroughly paved in diamonds that the metal beneath all but disappears.

Billionaire, Millionaire, and Caviar

The most famous of these, the original Billionaire watch, was covered in hundreds of carats of emerald cut diamonds and carried a price tag that made headlines around the world. Pieces like this are not really about telling the time. They are about the breathtaking display of exceptional stones, cut and set to a standard that only a true master jeweler could achieve. Among luxury watchmakers, very few can match the gem setting artistry that goes into the finest Jacob & Co watches, because very few began, as this brand did, as a genuine jeweler to the stars.

The Art of Gem Setting

The stone setting on these Jacob & Co watches deserves real respect on its own terms, quite apart from the mechanics. Sourcing rare, exceptional diamonds and colored gems, then cutting and setting them so that a case seems to be made entirely of light, is an art form that takes decades to master. The brand even developed its own signature 288 facet diamond cut, the one used as the Moon in the Astronomia, as a showcase for its lapidary skill. Whether the piece is a full high jewelry watch or simply a diamond set bezel on a sportier model, this jewelry pedigree is a defining thread running through all Jacob & Co watches.

The Scarface and Godfather Music

The Opera watches deserve a closer look because they capture the spirit of Jacob & Co watches so perfectly. Inside each is a genuine music box mechanism with a rotating cylinder and tuned blades, the same principle used in fine antique music boxes, shrunk down to fit on a wrist and paired with a flying tourbillon. Activate it and the watch plays its film theme while the cylinder turns in full view beneath the sapphire. Building a working music box into a wristwatch, in tune and with enough power to play properly, is a serious horological challenge, and it is the sort of romantic, cinematic idea that sets these Jacob & Co watches apart from anything else.

Movements and Manufacturing

Here is where a bit of honesty serves everyone well. Jacob & Co is a relatively young high horology house, and unlike a centuries old Swiss manufacture, it develops its most complex movements in close partnership with specialist Swiss movement makers and design studios rather than building every component from raw metal itself. The genius of the brand behind these Jacob & Co watches lies in conceiving audacious, seemingly impossible ideas and then working with the finest technical talent in Switzerland to bring them to life. The results are proprietary calibers developed specifically for the brand's watches.

And those calibers are genuinely impressive pieces of engineering. The multi axis tourbillons, the Astronomia's rotating architecture, the Bugatti engine automatons, the twin synchronized tourbillons of the Twin Turbo, these are real, patented mechanical achievements with hundreds of components each, not decorative fakery. They are assembled and finished in Switzerland to high horology standards and are among the most complicated wristwatch movements being made by anyone today. When we describe Jacob & Co watches, we are careful to credit the brand's genuine innovation while being clear eyed about how that innovation is realized, in collaboration with the best in the business.

Why Jacob & Co Suits a Certain Collector

After years of helping people find the right watch, we can tell you exactly who falls for Jacob & Co watches, and it is a very particular and wonderful kind of collector. A Jacob & Co is almost never someone's first or only watch. A Jacob & Co watch is the choice of a confident, established collector who already owns the classic Swiss names, has nothing left to prove, and wants something that is pure joy, pure spectacle, and pure fun. If you want a watch that whispers, this is emphatically not your brand. If you want a watch that makes a room stop and stare, you have found it.

If you love mechanical theater and animation, few Jacob & Co watches or anything else on earth delivers it like an Astronomia or a Bugatti. If you appreciate world class gem setting, the high jewelry Jacob & Co watches are extraordinary. If you have a passion for cars, music, or film, there is a Jacob & Co watch built around exactly that love. And if you simply refuse to take luxury too seriously and want something that celebrates imagination over restraint, this brand was made for you. Jacob & Co watches are for the collector who has earned the right to have a little outrageous fun, and who wants the world to know it.

An Honest Word on Value

We believe in being straight with people, and Jacob & Co watches call for a clear eyed conversation about money. These are, in many cases, extraordinarily expensive watches, with the grand complications running from the low hundreds of thousands of dollars well into the millions for the most gem laden pieces. More accessible lines like the Epic X and Five Time Zone start far lower, in the tens of thousands. What you are paying for in the top Jacob & Co watches is spectacle, rarity, exceptional stones, and genuinely complex movements, not the blue chip resale reputation of a few traditional Swiss icons. We never promise investment returns, and no one should buy any watch expecting to profit. A Jacob & Co is bought because it brings you joy, and on that measure, few brands deliver more.

Materials, Sizing, and Wearability

Materials Without Limits

Jacob & Co watches are built across the full range of luxury materials and then some, reaching for whatever a given concept demands. Across Jacob & Co watches, precious metals like rose and white gold are common, along with titanium for the larger complications to keep them wearable, and generous expanses of sapphire crystal to show off the mechanical drama within. And of course there are the diamonds and colored gemstones, set in staggering quantities on the high jewelry pieces. The brand also loves exotic and unusual materials wherever they serve the spectacle.

On sizing, there is no getting around it, many of the grand complication Jacob & Co watches are large and boldly three dimensional, because they have to be to house their extraordinary movements. The Astronomia and Bugatti Jacob & Co watches in particular make a substantial statement on the wrist, which is entirely the point. That said, the brand does offer more wearable options, and the Epic and Five Time Zone lines come in more conventional and manageable sizes. As always, how a watch actually wears comes down to your own wrist and your own taste, and we are glad to help you find the Jacob & Co watches that suit you.

Living With a Jacob & Co

These Jacob & Co watches are, for the most part, made for occasions rather than daily tool duty, and that is worth being realistic about. A grand complication with an exposed movement and a domed sapphire case is a special piece to be worn and enjoyed with a bit of care, not knocked around on a job site. The more robust Epic X, on the other hand, is designed as a sportier everyday option. Because the movements are so specialized, servicing should always be handled through the brand or watchmakers genuinely qualified to work on these calibers. Owned in the right spirit, a Jacob & Co watch is one of the most purely enjoyable things in all of collecting.

The Secondary Market for Jacob & Co

The pre owned market for Jacob & Co watches is a specialized and fascinating corner of the collecting world. Because so many of these pieces are limited editions or effectively unique, produced in tiny numbers with special stones and finishes, supply is genuinely scarce, and finding a specific reference can take real patience and connections. This is not a brand where you walk in and pick from a wall of identical watches. Each significant piece tends to have its own story.

Values for Jacob & Co watches in this market are driven by rarity, condition, the significance of a particular model, and above all the quality and quantity of the stones involved. The most sought after Astronomia, Bugatti, and high jewelry Jacob & Co watches command serious sums on the secondary market, while more accessible models like the Epic and Five Time Zone offer a more attainable entry into the brand. As with any watch bought largely for its artistry and stones, completeness, condition, and verified authenticity matter enormously to both value and confidence, which is exactly where a knowledgeable dealer proves invaluable.

What to Look For When Buying Pre Owned

Buying pre owned Jacob & Co watches calls for particular care, given the complexity of the watches and the value of the materials. The condition and correct function of these intricate movements is paramount, and any grand complication should be verified as working properly across all its animations and displays. On the gem set pieces, the quality, authenticity, and security of the stones is critical, and this is where a jeweler's eye truly earns its keep. Original box, papers, and provenance add real confidence and value, especially on limited editions. This is precisely the kind of expert scrutiny a reputable dealer provides, so you can buy one of these remarkable watches with genuine peace of mind.

Choosing Your First Jacob & Co

If you are ready to bring home your first Jacob & Co, the right starting point depends entirely on what draws you to the brand. For many people stepping in for the first time, the Epic X is the natural entry among Jacob & Co watches, a bold, skeletonized, genuinely wearable sports watch that delivers the brand's attitude without a grand complication price. The Five Time Zone offers colorful, practical, jet set fun at a similarly approachable level, and both make a wonderful introduction to what this house is all about.

For the collector ready to make a real statement, the icon Jacob & Co watches await. An Astronomia puts a spinning galaxy on your wrist and is, for many, the ultimate Jacob & Co watch. A Bugatti piece delivers that unforgettable engine automaton for the car lover. An Opera brings music and mechanical wonder together. And for the person who wants pure jewelry brilliance, the diamond set pieces are in a class of their own. There is no wrong first among the Jacob & Co watches, only the one whose particular flavor of spectacle speaks most directly to your own sense of joy.

Matching the Watch to the Wearer

The best way to choose among Jacob & Co watches is to be honest about what excites you and how you will actually wear it. If you want one showstopping piece for special occasions, an Astronomia or a Bugatti is unbeatable. If you want something with the brand's flair that you can wear more often, the Epic X is the answer. If your heart is set on jewelry above all, the gem set collections will dazzle you endlessly. We enjoy nothing more than matching the right watch to the right person, so tell us what draws you to the brand and we will point you toward the Jacob & Co watches that fit your taste and your life.

Servicing and Provenance

A watch this complex is a genuine commitment, and Jacob & Co watches deserve to be cared for accordingly. These highly specialized movements, with their multi axis tourbillons and intricate automatons, should only ever be serviced by the brand or by watchmakers specifically qualified to handle them, and service intervals should follow the maker's guidance. Treated properly, these are pieces that can be enjoyed for a lifetime and passed on, extraordinary conversation pieces that never lose their power to amaze.

Provenance carries real weight with a brand like this, where so many pieces are limited or unique and where the value of the stones is significant. A watch accompanied by its original box, papers, and clear history is both more enjoyable to own and more secure in value, and given the prevalence of special editions, documented authenticity is especially important. When we handle Jacob & Co watches, verifying authenticity, confirming the stones, and establishing provenance is a central part of the job, because with pieces like these you deserve absolute certainty about what you are getting.

Buying Jacob & Co Watches at Lone Star Timepieces

We built Lone Star Timepieces to be the kind of place we would want to buy from ourselves, and that shapes how we handle every Jacob & Co that comes through our doors. Every watch is authenticated in house before it is ever offered for sale. We verify movement condition and function, examine the stones with a jeweler's care, and stand behind what we sell. When you buy Jacob & Co watches from us, you are buying with the confidence that comes from real expertise and a straightforward, honest approach to pricing.

We are proud to serve collectors throughout the Dallas-Fort Worth (DFW) metro and far beyond it. Jacob & Co watches inspire genuine excitement, and we love sharing it, so whether you are a seasoned collector chasing a specific Astronomia or a newcomer curious about what all the spectacle is about, we are here to help you learn, compare, and decide at your own pace. There is never pressure with us, only genuine enthusiasm for some of the most extraordinary watches ever made.

Talk to Us

If you have questions about a particular model, want to know what we currently have available, or are thinking about selling or trading a Jacob & Co, we would love to hear from you. You can reach us directly at joseph@lonestartimepieces.com, and a real person who knows these watches will get back to you. Our clients across the Dallas-Fort Worth (DFW) metro and around the country have come to rely on us for honest guidance, and we would be glad to earn that trust with you as well.

Jacob & Co is a brand for the collector who wants watchmaking to astonish and delight, who values imagination and spectacle and craftsmanship over quiet convention. If that sounds like you, you have come to the right place. Explore our Jacob & Co watches, ask us anything, and let us help you find a piece that turns telling the time into pure theater. We suspect that once one is on your wrist, and you press that button to set a galaxy spinning or an engine roaring, you will understand exactly why this daring brand has captured the imagination of collectors around the world.