You may not always be able to tell which brand a luxury timepiece is by looking at it from afar. However, there are a couple of brands that have such distinct case shapes or major features that they are unmistakable...
You may not always be able to tell which brand a luxury timepiece is by looking at it from afar. However, there are a couple of brands that have such distinct case shapes or major features that they are unmistakable from any distance. Cartier is one such brand.
The distinct "tank" shape you see on many Cartier models is one of the company’s trademark designs and they just may be the best watchmaker at using right angles and straight lines. To appreciate the unique qualities Cartier offers with its tank wristwatches, it’s helpful to learn about the rich history of the company and its angular admiration.
Unlike many luxury watch brands, Cartier was not founded in Switzerland but rather in nearby Paris, France. Louis-Francois Cartier created the brand in 1847. An apprentice watchmaker, Cartier took over his master's watchmaking shop and launched his brand from within it. Similar to luxury watchmaker Patek Philipe, Cartier catered to the wealthy with high-end timepieces. The fact that Cartier catered to royalty and other high-end clients earned it the nickname "Jeweller of Kings, King of Jewellers."
For many years, Cartier was a family endeavor. In the late 1800's, Louis-Francois Cartier brought his son, Alfred, into the business to help it grow and expand. Alfred took over the company in 1874 and he later left the company to the care of his three sons - Louis, Pierre, and Jacques. Cartier remained with the Cartier family until the last of Alfred’s sons passed away in 1964. At that time, the brand was sold to private investors and reorganized under the Swiss Richemont brand.
Cartier’s first design to include right angles and straight edges was the "Santos" watch created in 1904 and sold commercially starting in 1911. It is credited as the first modern wristwatch ever created. Designed after family friend and aviation expert, Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos was the precursor to their Tank wristwatch. The Santos mixed luxury elements such as Roman numerals and gold material with visible screws on the bezel and a simple dial a pilot could use while in flight. The Santos is still in production to this day, over 100 years after being created. It eventually evolved into the Tank wristwatch in 1917. Utilizing the tank-style case, the Tank has a rectangular shape versus the square shape of the Santos. Both watches were relatively unique at the time of their release, as most wristwatches in production across the world were round.
Cartier’s Tank wristwatch is thusly named because it was designed after the military tanks of World War I. A tank, when viewed from above, would have tracks or treads on the left and right sides with the cabin in the middle. The Tank has brancards to represent the tracks as well as the dial and case to represent the cabin. Its rectangular shape and precise lines allow for an almost seamless transition from case to lugs to bracelet. As the only element on the watch that does not adhere to the rectangular shape, the crown is adorned with either a synthetic spinel or sapphire – depending on the model. The signature blue helps to serve as a pop of color, akin to jewelry, on the timepiece.
How can you know a Tank when you see one? Its signature elements include parallel lines on the left and right serving as the bezel, which are wider than the lines at the top and bottom of the case. Just above and below the case respectively are the lugs mounted in such a way that the bracelet or strap is the same width as the dial. Design of the dial itself varies but the “balloon bleu” – blue jewel atop the crown – will finish off the timepiece. Today, the quintessential Cartier Tank wristwatch dial includes: a white or cream color; Roman numerals around the outside; a grey or white rectangle of texture in the center of the dial; and blued hands to match the blue crown.
While the Tank we most often see matches the above, the timepiece has evolved significantly over its 100+ year history. The body of the original Tank was stretched in 1921, becoming Cartier’s Tank “the Louis Cartier” submodel. Over 50 years later, the Tank was given an all-monochrome dial makeover in the Tank “Must” submodel in the late 1970’s. The year 1988 brought a second stretched body, this time with rounded edges added to the brancards, in a revised design called the Tank “Américaine.” In 1996, Cartier gave the Tank a metal bracelet that perfectly matches the case material in the Tank “Franҫaise.” The Franҫaise also utilized brancards that are curved and rounded at the ends, as well as a sunray watch dial and a smaller, inlaid crown. While 1996 was the last major submodel release, Cartier has recently made a big advancement in sustainability by releasing solar-powered Tank Must models. Other Tank models include a variety of automatic and quartz movements.
Today, Cartier refuses to become complacent, constantly pushing the limits of what’s possible. One such iteration of this is the Tank “Asymétrique” watch, a head-turning timepiece that is off-center and includes a skeleton (resembling a ghost-bridge) design. Cartier also uses a variety of metals in their timepieces inclusive of steel, yellow gold, rose gold, and white gold. There are also multiple models with diamond accents and several different sizes available in various designs.
How much does a Cartier Tank cost? While the prestige and design innovations could demand high price tags, Cartier tries to make the watch as accessible as possible. To that end, an entry-level steel watch in a small size and with a quartz movement costs about $3,300. Models increase in price with a larger size case, movement complexity, and case/bracelet material. Most high-end models stay south of the $33,000 price tag, aside for a white gold / diamond-laced model at $53,500 and the Asymétrique at $69,000.
With every new release, Cartier cements its reputation as an elite watchmaker all the more. Cartier is not just an elite luxury watch brand though – their work to perfect the rectangular timepiece in the Tank is proof that Cartier is an innovative force to be reckoned with.
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